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The STLA competition was an amazing experience, and playing around San Antonio with five amazing people was an even more incredible adventure.

oh, and I got to see the inside of the Alamo!

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Muy Bueno!!

Saturday, October 13th will go down in history as one of the coolest days ever! We got to cruise around the Chesapeak Bay aboard the USS George Washington, watch an amazing mid-ocean air show and I even got to meet George. Although it was a long day, the pictures don’t do it justice!

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A little over two hours of train ride through the Indian country side and we arrive at Jhinsau, capital of Madya Predesh’s neighboring state. It is a bustling train station. There are hundreds, if not thousands of people jostling for positions so they can comfortably wait for the next train or catch a view of their arriving loved one. Right before we arrived, I finished reading the novel about Marie Antoinette Holly let me borrow. I was sad to finish. It was a fascinating story that has finally brought me to confess I am in love with all things royalty. Because of her Austrian origins, this often misunderstood Queen of France, refers to Schonbrunn in Vienna with frequency. And every time she mentions it, I love her! It takes me back to the beginning of the summer. I was in Austria at the beginning of June and it already feels lifetimes away. Remembering through her descriptions makes it all real again. From Linz, to Budapest, to Prague, to Salzburg, to Venice, to Vienna, and back to Linz again, this summer began like a dream, and now in the innermost folds of India, I feel it will end like one.

Off the train and through the commotion we find our gracious hosts holding that now familiar piece of paper. “Ms. Ana and Ms. Holly Harrington.” For some reason, no one seems to get my last name here. I smile. Maybe I need no other name! Haha…From now on, I’ll just be Ana – just Ana – like Cher or Prince. Haha…maybe not.

They are both NLIU professors currently conducting research in conjunction with the Indian government. It is an important and vast project they, along with several other organizations and NGOs, have undertaken. In essence, they are mapping the workings of the formal and informal judicial systems in rural India. Because of geography and history, rural villages have developed their own ways of dealing justice. The task now is to determine if it is working and if there is a way to merge it with the formal system and thus create one unified judicial body for the whole of India. I know it is much more complex than this, but to explain it further, I would need to call in the experts. Both professors are young and charming. They speak fluent English and are very proud of what they do. One teaches Criminology and just recently joined NLIU. The other is a Sociology professor and the warden for the boys’ hostel back in Bhopal. I shudder to think of those boys, as we speak, undeterred and unsupervised. Good luck, world! At least their midterms are around the corner. That will keep them busy till the warden’s return. It is my hope, and silently I think his as well.

From the train station to Chettapur is another 3 hours drive. They weren’t kidding when they sent us to see the real India. On the way, we stop at an old fort and temple- imposing structures that frame the country side and get me excited and shutter happy. I have promised myself when I have lots of money, I will hire a photographer wherever I go to follow me around and take pictures. It is so hard sometimes to get exactly what you want. I know I’m very picky…just ask Marian…and it makes it hard to hand the camera to someone to take a picture of me. I can’t help myself. The perfect photograph forms in my mind. I see its lighting, its framing, its angle…and these things I can’t convey in the 10 seconds it takes to hand the camera away. Nevertheless, I walk away satisfied with my first real temple pictures. The fort is old and majestic. Apparently it was built by the local king in the early 1800s to defend from the British. Absolutely amazing. Unfortunately, we have 2.5 hours to our destination and the sun is setting. I take pictures even as I drive away. I can’t help myself!

From the moment I stepped of the plane, Bhopal was a whirlwind of experiences. Even more so since I had dozed off the last 15 minutes of the flight and hadn’t quite woken up when we met our escorts. They were three beautiful young students from the National Law Institute University. We hit it off from the start. I asked, they asked, and we laughed a lot. They were fourth and fifth years (our of a five year program) and appear to be involved in everything! It was utterly amazing to meet such motivated, bright, and vivacious young women!

Unfortunately, because it was rainy and late we didn’t get to see much of the city. The college looked large and very impressive, even in the dark. A brand new library has just been completed and it serves as the centerpiece of a very complete university compound. We had heard much about it in the States and from Dr. Menon, but what we found was even more impressive than what I imagined. The building itself is very large and modern. There are what seem to be hundreds of panels of reflective glass surrounding what appears to be a very large bowl. It is surrounded by a low tiled pool. In the daylight, the fish design from the tile is reflected throughout the entire structure contrasting in the most beautiful way.

The campus is outside the city- about 30 minutes from the airport- and is in a rural setting. It reminds me a lot of Gimnasio Los Cerezos, my school in Manizales. Just much busier and serious. A residential university, students are housed in three hostels and even the Professors have living quarters on campus. We are staying at the Guest House. My room is a suite. It is actually two rooms and it includes a sitting area, a walk in kind of closet and a bathroom. It has air conditioning which in the Bhopal hot and very humid weather comes in very handy.

The first night we take dinner in my room and are again accompanied by the girls. The list of activities they are involved in just doesn’t stop!! It is truly inspiring! In their few years here they have accomplished more than some attorneys I know. They have written and produced documentaries to highlight legal issues currently being faced by some Indian tribal communities, they direct Moot Court and the student run magazine. They are published- internationally!! They haven’t even graduated and their resumes probably come in volumes.

I go to bed overcome by information, gratitude for their hospitality and complete excitement as to what we’ll encounter while here at NLIU.

Bright and early we awaken by tea. Then we put on our Sunday best and head to the district court with the brand new Alternative Dispute Resolution Cell. We meet more students and I begin to realize brilliance here is the rule, not the exception. The district judge is an assertive, animated woman. She knows what her job is and she understand part of that job is to help train these up and coming legal minds. She answers our questions and gives us free reign over her courthouse. The building itself is very large. It houses municipal and magistrate courts. All over, there are sharply dressed men and women walking with a purpose. There is a lot of activity from every corner and of every kind. After a full day of judicial learning, we all return to NLIU exhausted and enriched. My favorite experience was talking to a local magistrate judge. It was amazing to see how he interacted with the students, answered their questions and discussed cases and ideas. What an incredible learning experience!

At the campus, we arrive late for High Tea with the faculty and some visiting judges in town for the Moot Court competition. After speaking with the sociology professor, I feel I have struck gold. He is bright and eloquent and with the perfect background and experience to be my contact and resource as I develop and write my book chapter.

In the evening, we take our meal with the girls at their mess hall. Their hostel is an enormous labyrinth surrounding a beautiful garden/courtyard. There are 150 rooms and a little under 100 are filled at the moments. They have a nine p.m. curfew and a very serious no boys allowed rule. Dinner is simple but perfect. I am really learning to appreciate Indian cuisine…and every day I fall more and more in love with their bread. More nan, please!!!

Saturday is another crazy, busy day. We eat breakfast in the room and at promptly at 10 a.m. are whisked away to witness the ADR cell meeting. Innocently, we arrive to take our place as flies in the wall and are greatly surprised when we find it is all about us and our visit. We are even asked to take a place in the front podium to direct discussion. Promptly, we respectfully decline and instead decide to participate from our front row seats. Although an ADR meeting, discussion turns quickly to legal education, social responsibility and lessons in social justice. The professor is a little flustered his meeting is not going according to plan, but menial and encouraging at the same time. After exchanging emails and promises to write, we take off for a library tour and lunch with the faculty.

There, we find the Moot Court competition is progressing swimmingly. We’ll get to experience it first hand in the morning. Now, they are simply going through the elimination process and tomorrow the remaining participants will be ranked.

The rest of the afternoon involves a Client Counseling demonstration where Oscars and Golden Globes should have been awarded and a meeting with the principal and the Professor in charge of the Access to Justice programs. This university blows me away!

I’m not feeling very well but I’m plowing through the day’s activities because I know my time here is precious. I feel feverish and very tired but they have arranged a shopping trip to town I am not about to miss. Aditi, my new wonderful friend, turns out to be a terrible influence shopping and I vow to never speak to her at a store again. Of course, I am kidding, because although I have known her for less than 72 hours I already feel like we’ve been friends forever. My purchases are endless and every time the thought that I may not have a place to put it all crosses my mind, I dismiss it and buy something else. I am in India. Everything is beautiful and exotic and for the most part, affordable. I am in heaven!

Unfortunately, heaven doesn’t last very long since my health and my energy have deteriorated in direct relation to each other. Although the girls want to stay and eat out for dinner, I ask to be taken back. All I want is to go to bed. I have a fever and chills and I’m not quite sure I will make it through the evening. Back in the room, many people come to check on me. Even the Jurisprudence professor stops to show me some motherly care. I don’t know her but I love her for it. I am miserable and I look it. Extra-strenght acetaminophen, a lukewarm bath and sleep. My only hope is that I will feel better in the morning, because tomorrow we have a cross-country adventure waiting for us.

I skip the morning tour to the pre-historic caves and decide it is wiser to take care of my body and my health—it is a decision I do not regret. Although they had a great time and even saw giant monkeys, I am feeling much better in the morning. No fever at least! Aditi comes for me and whisks me away to the mess hall to accompany her for breakfast. She is so wonderfully smart and sweet! I hope she really does come visit me in the US. I can already imagine all the trouble we would get in together!!

Another of her friends joins us in her room and we talk so much, before we know it, Im 30 minutes late to my scheduled appointment! We run out the girls hall and make it just in time, through a crack in the door, to the finals of the moot court competition. Although I can’t hear them very well over the fans and because the room’s acoustics aren’t the best, I can see from their presence, their demeanor and their attitude that they are kicking butt! Some stand out more than others, but they are all in their element this morning. I can’t believe they had to write two briefs! I barely got one in on time!! I am convinced these kids are just crazy! Lunch with the faculty follows and I’m once again feeling like death is at my doorstep. I must look it, too, considering the continued parade of comforting and concerned words. A professor comes to my rescue with amazing cold medicine. I am at the point I do not even ask what it is. Nothing could make me feel worse than I feel at this very moment.

As we board the car to the train station, I start to wonder whether heading into the unknowns of civilization is a smart choice in my condition. But I am in India and nothing, short of plague or natural disaster, will stop me! I am confident, determined, and very very nauseous. We make it to the train station just in time. Lunch has helped settle my stomach and the cold medicine has helped settle my head. Although I still feel underwater, I am pleasantly surprised by our train accommodations. They are basic but comfortable, clean and air conditioned. You couldn’t ask for more! Sitting in Cart C7, seat 23, I cant help but thank God for all these amazing people and experiences. This has been an unbelievable adventure -much more than I could have ever imagined and much more than I could have wished for. I close my eyes and as I drift into sleep all I can think is “thank you, thank you, thank you.” I direct my thoughts to God, to the Universe, to whomever is out there listening, and I know my thank yous don’t fall on deaf ears and I hope whomever is listening knows those two simple words come from the deepest of my being.

Trivandrum really is a delight! After our early and very informative meeting with Dr. Menon we took off to explore a bit of the city. Once again, Dr. Menon amazed us with his knowledge and passion for the education of future law professionals. He is involved in so many things and yet so composed and attentive. It was very inspirational to see his eyes light up when he talked about the changes and the future of the profession in India. It definitely was a fantastic idea to begin our trip by speaking with him. He provided us a million resources to move forward and great contacts back in the States.

Lunch was at a coffee shop. Gigimon was wonderful and accompanied us and guided us throughout the day. I had my first Dosa (i think that’s right) and it was great. I am definitely in love with all Indian bread products!! Then we went Law book shopping — unsuccessfully and clothes shopping — also, and amazingly, unsuccessfully.

All the morning excitement climaxed with an ayurveda massage. Holly described it as chickens on a carving board getting seasoned… hahaha! She even said we smelled like Stove Top stuffing…hahaha…I loved it, but that was pretty much on the money. They separated us into two rooms. Then each was greeted by two women who slathered us in hot oil! It was rough at times but ultimately very relaxing. It is my impression that this is very helpful with circulation issues which comes in very handy since I feel like I have so many sometimes. Then, we were rinsed in herbal tea water which left my skin feeling amazing.

It also left us ready for another shower. Back to the hotel and then onto Kovalam Beach on the outskirts of the city. It was fairly crowded considered it is low season and I definitely saw more western tourists that I had seen anywhere else. Curiously, none seemed to speak English, though. There were tons of seafood restaurants, little shops and vendors. The beach was framed by a beautiful lighthouse that looked ghostly and distant because of the fog. A tourist town, this is also a fishing village. We encountered tables full of huge and sometime scary looking fish that looked delicious. Unfortunately, they also looked like they would have bitten me had I tried to eat them. Yikes! I bought two great skirts and a beautiful wooden necklace. It was hard no to buy everything I saw!!

In the evening we went to the local pizza hang out- Gigimon’s choice. We finished the day just like we started it: driving him crazy with questions. He was incredibly patient and helpful. We finally had the courage to tell him that every time he moved his head side to side saying yes…we thought he meant no. It is an Indian custom that will take sometime getting used to. Fortunately, he thought it was hilarious and attempted to start nodding instead. That didn’t last long as habits die hard and once again we laughed the entire night trying to decipher whether each side to side shake meant yes or no.

Day 3

Our last morning in Trivandrum was spent as all last morning should- SHOPPING! We had a delicious complementary breakfast at the hotel and headed for the textile store recommended by our very friendly and helpful Winona. She was the Guest Relations Director at the hotel and the most charming and beautiful Indian woman I have met.

The store was a couple of blocks away and had four floors of colorful inventory. We finally found some traditional Indian wear to wear during the trip. I bought one pink and one orange sawa chamisses. I can’t wait to wear them!!

Gigimon was waiting for us back at the hotel. We shared a traditional mango lassi and took pictures with the hotel staff. They were all so great we wanted to remember them! On the way to the airport we stopped at a beautiful temple for pictures. It was grand and imposing. There were tons of people around going in or coming out of daily prayers. We couldn’t go inside because only Hindus are allowed. Nevertheless, what we could see from the door was very beautiful.

We caught the airplane just in time and headed to Bhopal via Mumbai with little delay.

Trivandrum was a great introduction to India. I am very glad we started there. It set the tone for what bodes to be an unforgettable trip.

Waking up bright and early at 5:45am was not very nice…although you probably had to have been asleep to qualify as waking up. Instead, I got up at 5:45am and jumped into the Sheraton shower… or should I say, HEAVEN! I wanted to stay under that water pressure forever. I left for the airport promptly after 6am and arrived before 7. I witnessed a fender bender and learned from the car driver that I had too much left to see before leaving again.

The airport was packed and smaller than I imagined. There were people going in all directions and only one terminal connecting you to tons of gates all sharing one waiting area…yea…very confusing! Thankfully, I didn’t miss my flight! First, we flew to Mumbai. There, to my surprise, we picked up Holly and went on to Trivandrum. It was great seeing her and knowing I now had a partner in crime as India could be very overwhelming at times.

At the airport, we had a very nice man named Gigimon waiting for us. It never gets old to see your name on a sign! hahaha… he took us to the hotel and later picked us up for our meeting with Dr. Menon.

Dr. Menon is an amazing person. He has been working in law for over 50 years in everything from practice to teaching. He was the catalyst for all the changes to legal education in India and it was a real treat to get to pick his brain a little. Holly and I definitely felt like we needed 5 more days with him to get to hear everything we need.

The city itself is much bigger than I expected. There are thousands of cars and people everywhere, all the time. Bananas are their thing, so there are banana stands as far as the eye can see on some roads. Amazingly, they have over 30 different species of bananas!!! The hotel itself is very nice. Our room is big and it even has a little sitting area and desk. There is a rooftop pool and restaurant and a business center for our internet needs. The weather is warm and muggy but not very hot. It feels great!

Leaving Atlanta for the third time this summer didn’t make it any easier. As much as I love to travel, I always have a hard time saying goodbye. Nevertheless, at least I now know what to expect. They took my shampoo, conditioner, wrinkle-out spray and facewash at security, even though they all met the requirements and just because they were trying to be difficult. But I can’t complain, I got all three seats to myself for the 14 and a half hour Newark-Delhi flight. I made myself a little nest with five pillows and three blankets and spent most of the flight sleeping and reading Harry Potter…which by the way, it’s really good!

Arriving in Delhi was an incredible experience. I went through immigration just fine, didn’t have to wait for any checked luggage because I didn’t have any, and passed through customs without delay. I was greeted by a very nice man in a sailor suit holding up a sign with my name on it. I’ve never had my name on a sign before!! I felt so important. He drove me, on the right side of the road, to the Sheraton New Delhi to meet my friend Jonathan and the hotel certainly didn’t disappoint.

The ride there was an adventure in and of itself. Even though it was after 10:30pm, the streets where packed with people. They were shopping, talking, gathering on sidewalks, cross-legged sharing tea, surrounding a new-old motorcycle, or simply sitting….waiting almost…for something miraculous to happen. I was jolted from my people watching by the sight of the most enormous dog I had ever seen. It was standing on a street corner…just chilling…people watching. However, imagine my surprise when the dog turned out to really be a cow. No matter what any one thinks, that was even more amazing that seeing the planet’s biggest dog. I had heard cows roamed the Indian street, but I just couldn’t get over the fact that they really did. And it wasn’t just one… there were dozens of them…every where. Bulls, too. Sitting on the sidewalk…chilling and contemplating who knows what…probably the same think everyone else seemed to be concentrating on.. I just couldn’t figure out what that was.

We arrived at the Sheraton New Delhi and were greeted by the most handsomely dressed Indian man I have ever seen- turban and all. The lobby was majestic and in absolute contrast with the poverty outside. The hotel was luxurious and opulent and all the synonyms of those words you can imagine. And the room was a dream. My favorite part was the massage chair in which I perched myself two minutes after walking through the door. As tired as I was, however, it was hard to sleep. I had an 8am flight and I kept waking up thinking I’d miss it. What I missed though, was a night of sleep I direly needed. Jonathan called me a car to the airport at 6:15am and I departed excited that I get to come back here again for at least one more night!

From the Hapsburg palace we went straight to the Vienna Arbitration Court. We got an amazing reception with more food than we could ever eat. After a two hour presentation, we were let loose to explore all that is Vienna.

Our first adventure was trying to get 12 people on the right train to the right train station with the right tickets. An hour later, we found the Wombat’s hostel and went through the madness of figuring out what, where and when. Andrew, Jeff, Charlie, Karisa, Lauren and I shared a 6 bunk dorm with one bathroom. Talk about an experience!

That night, we headed to one of the famous Viennese wine caves. It was more a garden than a cave but it was great nonetheless. We drank lots of viennese wine and ate 10 pounds of cheese. It was a great relaxing night that culminated in the underground bar of the Wombat’s hostel drinking whynattes, break dancing, and singing along to Outkast and David Bowie.

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The next day we explored as much of Vienna as we could before the torrential rains came again.
We went to St. Stephens, shopped at the biggest H&M I’ve ever seen, and walked around the museums and the in-town palaces. My favorite part, however, was the city market.

Two enormous blocks of vegetable, meat, fish, cheese, and whatever you can imagine stands. It was an absolute dream! We ate at the best little Asian place and bought a pound of almonds for the road.

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Although we made it to the bus on time, the bus was an hour late…and it just turned out to be the wettest hour of our trip.

Our trip to Vienna was a quick but very fun one. On our way to the court, we stopped at the Hapsburg’s summer palace for the morning. Many people were thrilled about it because it was raining. I, on the other hand, loved it! I could have spent two days exploring every inch of that place!

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The girls went on their own to explore the gardens and get food. I joined another group and decided to spend my time touring the inside of the castle.

The palace was magnificent. Not only was it beautiful, but it was oozing history. From the Empress Maria Theresa, to Franz Joseph, to Sissy, to Napoleon, to the last of the Hapsburg dynasty, every room had a story to tell. It was a dream for me! To see where they sat, where they worked, and where they slept. And to top it all, to be surrounded by the most amazing works of art spanning all ages and styles. The ballroom was magnificent. Here were held meetings and treaties that changed the world. Unfortunately, no pictures were allowed.

After the tour, we headed straight for the Apple Struddel demonstration. We were very warmly greeted when we walked in and ushered to the very front of the stage. Giant pieces of struddle and fresh brewed lattes were waiting for us. We wasted no time trying the Viennese dessert…and they wasted no time figuring out we weren’t the Russian group they were waiting for. It was hilarious…and although they moved us from our prime view, we got to keep the life sized sweets while everyone else received a bite sized piece of struddle.

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It was raining cats and dogs by the time we got out. However, we were not deterred to explore the gardens. By the end, we looked like drowned rats…but we were happy drowned rats! The gardens were awesome: beautifully manicured and expanding as far as the eye could see. There was a zoo, a maze, rose gardens, overlooking towers… you name it!

I can’t imagine actually living here before all the tourists arrived!